Georgia is experiencing an Arctic Blast! And there is more winter left to come.

Start by asking, “what do I need to cover”? Any plant, be it a perennial or a shrub, that is hardy in our zones that is established in the ground will likely be okay. This includes camellias and hellebores, many of which are blooming now or are really close. But below are things you’ll definitely want to consider covering:

• Young seedlings and new growth

• Tender perennials

• Newly planted shrubs and ornamental grasses. I just planted 5 abelia about a month ago, so I’ll be covering those.

• Tropical and subtropical plants such as palms and banana plants (they are most often NOT hardy to zone 7)

I have a Diamond Spire gardenia and a Little Miss Figgy fig plant, both potted, so I’ve brought them in. If you’re unable to bring a potted plant inside, water it in advance of the cold if the soil is dry, cover it completely, and shield it from the wind by pushing it up close to a fence or a structure. You can also pile leaves up around a pot to provide added insulation. I’ve even read about people using bubble wrap around pots! Anything goes - ‘A’ for effort!

“Why water before a freeze?” Walter Reeves says, “Because most plants wilt, some a lot and some just a little, before a freeze to protect themselves from cold damage. It’s important that the roots have water around them after the freeze to send it to the dried leaves. Pansies are famous for wilting during a freeze. The leaves look awful the morning after temperatures have been lower than 32°. But given a bit of sun AND water around the roots, the plants will recover by noon. Watering also helps the soil stay warmer. A dense material (the soil) can store and release heat better than loose dry soil.”

For anything like a hydrangea, cover it if you’re able. Again, cover these plants completely, all the way to the ground, and anchor the cover down. The American Hydrangea Society, based here in Atlanta, offers the advice of “covering plants with sheets and using stakes so the sheet doesn’t rest on the plant and cause breakage.”

What you use as a cover is important too. Plastic should be used as a last resort because moisture builds up underneath it and if it’s not removed right away as the sun comes out, it will create a greenhouse-type effect and get too hot under there. Consider using frost cloth, sheets, cardboard boxes, buckets and even flower pots to cover smaller things. Frost cloth is safe to leave on a plant or vegetable bed for days at a time. Keep in mind too, soil temperature doesn’t match air temperature, so we’ll need numerous, consecutive days of below freezing temps to really start to affect most plants.

Many golf courses are covering their greens. But what about our lawns? Clint Waltz, turfgrass specialist at UGA, says “Cold injury to turfgrass is generally associated with cold AND dry conditions. While the late fall and early winter were dry”ish”, recent rainfall has been minimally adequate for keeping the growth points of the grass plant hydrated. Grasses that are fully dormant, like now, are resilient enough to handle some cold weather.”

And you’ve heard this before. Wrap up hoses, cover outside hose bibs, protect and check irrigation systems, and bring in any glass that can collect water, like a birdbath or feeder. I’ve had a glass birdbath freeze and shatter. Please, please bring pets indoors too! It is our responsibility to protect and love them. 🐶🐱

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